HOW TO CHOOSE SELF-TANNER
COSMETIC TANNING VS. SUN TANNING
Sporting a fair complexion was once considered an indication of nobility as tanning was a characteristic characteristic of the lowest social classes, often composed of peasants forced to spend entire days under the sun in the fields. Today, beauty standards have profoundly changed and, on the contrary, exalt tanned skin, especially in the spring and summer period, with an amber or brownish complexion that many people struggle to achieve.
Exposing oneself too frequently and for many hours to ultraviolet rays, however, is not the ideal solution, as these can cause damage to the epidermis such as the appearance of premature wrinkles, skin blemishes and, in more serious cases, the onset of diseases such as melanoma.
For this reason, many people resort to self-tanning creams and lotions, which allow them to have an effect similar to a natural tan, with results often in a very short time or even immediate.
HOW DO SELF-TANNERS WORK?
Let us begin by premising that the result that can be obtained with a cosmetic of this type is not the same as that which the action of the sun’s rays gives on the epidermis, since these go to act on melanin while self-tanners act only on the surface, on the corneum, one of the outermost layers of the epidermis.
The pigmentation that self-tanners are able to generate is due to the chemical reaction that is triggered between certain sugar molecules contained in the lotions and certain proteins in the cells that make up the corneum. Let us see in detail in the following paragraphs which ingredients generate these reactions and color the skin.
INGREDIENTI DEGLI AUTOABBRONZANTI
Il primo elemento a cui prestare attenzione quando si sceglie l’autoabbronzante (e in realtà tutti i cosmetici in generale) è senz’altro l’INCI, ovvero la lista di ingredienti presenti all’interno di un prodotto e riportata per legge sulla confezione in tutti gli stati della UE ed in molti altri Paesi del mondo, come USA, Canada, Brasile e Russia. L’etichetta dell’autoabbronzante ci fornisce informazioni utili sulla sua formulazione, ovvero quali sono gli ingredienti contenuti e in che percentuale (gli ingredienti sono infatti elencati in ordine decrescente, da quello presente in maggiore quantità a diminuire). Nei paragrafi a venire illustriamo le sostanze più diffuse negli autoabbronzanti naturali e non.
DHA E ERITRULOSIO
La sostanza alla base degli autoabbronzanti più diffusa in assoluto è il DHA, ovvero il diidrossiacetone, una molecola di zucchero che provoca la colorazione della cute grazie alla sua capacità di reagire con le proteine presenti nelle cellule dell’epidermide. A seconda di come questa sostanza si presenta nella formulazione e della percentuale in cui è presente (che può variare dall’1 al 12% circa) si ottengono dei risultati di colore differenti ed in tempi differenti: chiaramente, sono i prodotti con una percentuale di DHA maggiore che offrono una colorazione più intensa e con effetti immediatamente visibili.
Al DHA vengono poi spesso aggiunti degli altri zuccheri, come l’eritrulosio, il cui compito è quello di rendere l’abbronzatura ottenuta tendente al marroncino e non all’arancio e di sviluppare la pigmentazione in maniera più graduale e duratura.
INGREDIENTI AGGIUNTIVI
Molti autoabbronzanti contengono poi degli elementi extra che servono ad arricchire la formula e ad ottenere vari effetti sulla pelle. Spesso si possono trovare del caramello, dell’estratto di guscio di noce o delle basse percentuali di henné, che servono a colorare prevalentemente il cosmetico e leggermente anche la pelle. Possono poi essere aggiunti degli elementi nutrienti e/o idratanti quali l’aloe vera, il burro di karité e gli oli essenziali.
I PRODOTTI NATURALI E BIOLOGICI
As with all other cosmetics, self-tanners can be natural, organic, or made with synthetically derived ingredients. In general, all self-tanners contain molecules such as DHA and erythrulose, so the difference lies solely in the fact that natural cosmetics have an INCI composed of plant-derived substances only.
Organic ones, then, are the completely “green” self-tanners, since not only do they contain plant extracts, but these are derived only from organic cultivation, that is, they do not use GMOs or synthetic products.
SPEED OF RESULT AND DURABILITY
We now come to two other important factors in choosing the right self-tanner for one’s needs, namely how quickly the results appear and how long they will remain visible.
While the duration of the result is variable, the rapidity, on the other hand, is well defined. There are in fact two types of self-tanners, instant and gradual ones.
INSTANT SELF-TANNERS
These contain ahigh amount of DHA because they promise visible and quite intense results as early as a few hours after application. With this type of product, it is a good idea to choose a color shade appropriate for the desired effect because the pigmentation of the skin cannot be modulated.
GRADUAL SELF-TANNERS
They contain lower percentages of DHA and thus are ideal for achieving a lighter effect at first, which can obviously be intensified by repeating the application until the desired tone is achieved.
DURATION OF TAN WITH SELF TANNER
As we said, the duration of the tan is variable depending on factors such as how often the cosmetic is applied, but also on the skin’s reaction to the cosmetic, which can in fact change from person to person. In general, however, pigmentation will never last more than about a week because the skin cells that make up the stratum corneum regenerate regularly. Clearly, however, the duration can be extended with successive applications to be repeated weekly or several times within the same week.
To improve the penetration of self-tanners, it is also preferable to exfoliate the skin before applying them, so that the product acts on a newly regenerated cell layer and makes the treatment last longer.
THE FORMULAS: SPRAY, GEL, CREAM OR FLUID?
Another aspect to evaluate when you want to buy a self-tanner concerns its formula: there are really numerous ones on the market, from cream to gel, and each one is more or less suitable for different skin types.
Let’s see in the following list what are the various types of existing self-tanners and their main characteristics.
SELF-TANNING CREAM/LOTION
This type is certainly the most popular on the market because it has several advantages. The first is that often, in addition to coloring the epidermis, these formulations also act as moisturizing or soothing lotions since they are enriched with oils or vitamins that nourish the skin. Lotions and creams are particularly suitable for those with dry or combination skin and should be applied by massaging the affected area for a long time until completely absorbed because of their “oilier” consistency. On the other hand, the very fact that they take longer to absorb reduces the risk of mistakes, since it is always possible to shrink them better by massaging an area where a darker spot has formed for longer. The main difference is that lotion has a lighter, more fluid consistency than cream, which appears more “pasty.” They can be applied to both the face and body.
SELF-TANNING FLUID
The consistency of these self-tanners is precisely fluid and fresh, and they apply to the skin very easily and quickly. They have the advantage that they also act as a brightener for the treated areas and offer a lighter result, so they are ideal for those who want a gradual tan or are afraid of getting too much color from the first application. Ideal especially for the face, self-tanning fluids need several hours to be fully absorbed by the skin, which is why it would be preferable to apply them at night before bed.
GELS AND MOUSSES
These are two formulas that are ideal for those with oily skin since they are significantly less moisturizing than creams and, in fact, tend to absorb poorly and create spots on those with dry skin. The consistency is light and tends to dry very quickly, which allows you to be able to quickly apply a new layer for a more intense effect, but involves the need to be more precise in application since the skin absorbs them quickly. For this reason, we do not believe they are ideal products for beginners in cosmetic tanning. Finally, gels have a pleasant cooling effect. They can be applied indiscriminately on the body and face.
SPRAY
This type of self-tanner is sprayed directly onto the skin from a distance of about 20 cm by making circular movements. This is a very practical product to use since it allows you to cover large areas quickly and also to reach difficult areas such as the back of the legs or the back more comfortably. The absorption of this self-tanner is very fast and therefore more care and precision is needed when applying it, especially to avoid overstressing in some places and thus creating too dark spots. They are the ideal solution for the body.
WIPES
This is a very easy formula to use since you only need to unpack the wipe and wipe over the affected areas. Given their ease of use and speed of application, they are ideal, for example, when traveling or perhaps for maintenance treatments of the color already obtained by applying a cream or gel product. They can be used both on the body and the face, but are in our opinion more suitable for the latter purpose since, given the small surface area, it is difficult with a single wipe to cover large areas.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF SELF-TANNING
After understanding what ingredients a self-tanner can be composed of, how much it can cost, and how it works, let’s make a brief list of what we think are the strengths and weaknesses of using this cosmetic. Let’s start with the positive aspects.
QUICK EFFECT
Especially when using an immediate-acting cosmetic, the complexion produced by self-tanners is visible from less than an hour after application, while obviously for sun exposure one must be more patient before obtaining visible results, which are more or less rapid depending on the characteristics of one’s complexion.
SOLVES A “SNAG” AND LASTS LONGER THAN MAKEUP
Imagine, for example, that you have to attend a spring event where you want to wear a low-cut or short dress and that you do not like the idea of sporting a pale, dull complexion, especially with that beautiful dress. Self-tanner helps precisely in these cases where there is a need for a remedy that is effective, immediate and far more durable than, for example, foundation.
IT HAS NO RISK
While there are numerous well-known studies illustrating the negative effects of UV rays on the skin, scientific research on DHA and other ingredients used in self-tanners has yet to show a correlation between the use of these cosmetics and any harm to the human body.
Let us now analyze some negative aspects of self-tanning.
LESS NATURAL EFFECT
Although there are formulations on the market today that do not give that “orange” effect typical of the products of the past, it must still be said that the end result on the skin is obviously different from the natural tan, which is irreplaceable and unique from person to person.
REQUIRES SPECIAL ATTENTION IN APPLICATION
As we will see below, the use of self-tanner requires special care in its application to avoid spots on the skin, uneven complexion and stains on clothes.
DOES NOT PROTECT AGAINST EXPOSURE TO SUNLIGHT
When applying self-tanner, it is good to remember that despite the darker complexion given by the product, the skin should be protected from the sun. Therefore, in case you expose yourself to the sun, you should apply a sunscreen with SPF suitable for your natural complexion.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT SELF-TANNERS
HOW DO YOU APPLY SELF-TANNER?
The use of self-tanner cannot be sloppy because, if proper care is not taken, there is a risk of applying it in spots, resulting in an uneven result that is unpleasant to the eye. To even out the application of self-tanners, you can possibly use the special applicator glove for self-tanners (sometimes included already in the package) that makes the distribution of creams, gels or oils more even, even better if combined with an exfoliating glove to be used before application. In addition to exfoliating the skin, it is also recommended to depilate it in order to have a smooth skin and make it easier to apply the product.Also be especially careful if you have fair skin: especially in this case, apply a moderate amount of product because it will be easier to achieve a natural and even effect possibly by adding another layer of product later, while in case you use an excessive amount it is not easy to go back and in most cases you will have to wait for the coloration given by the self-tanner to fade naturally after a few days.
Beware of clothes as well: some self-tanning products can in fact leave stains on fabrics. In this case, it is a good idea to rinse the stain immediately and then proceed to machine wash. If you apply self-tanner before bedtime, you can use a dark towel to lie on to avoid leaving halos on the sheets.
SELF-TANNER OR TAN ACCELERATOR?
Self-tanners, which we have told you about on this page, and tan accelerators are often confused with each other even though they are two different products and the use of one does not exclude the other. While the former, as we have already seen, contain substances that can color the surface layer of the skin, tan accelerators, on the other hand, use tyrosine, a molecule that is fundamental in the process of melanin synthesis, that substance that when exposed to the sun activates and gives us that darker color to protect us from the sun. Tanning accelerators should therefore be used before exposure to the sun to accelerate and increase the intensity of the tan. Again, however, we are not talking about sunscreens, which should always be applied instead to protect the skin from radiation.
WHERE TO BUY SELF-TANNER?
A good self-tanner can be purchased at pharmacies, herbal stores (if you are looking for natural products) or alternatively at the supermarket, where you can find products at an affordable price. To have a wider choice, however, it is better to opt for virtual stores, including online pharmacies or popular marketplaces.
HOW MUCH DOES A SELF-TANNER COST?
The cost of a self-tanner can start at just under €10 and reach a maximum of about €40. This figure varies depending on different factors, including first and foremost the formula of the self-tanner (creams, for example, tend to be cheaper than oils, which usually have higher concentrations of tanning ingredients) or the speed with which results will be achieved (products that give immediate results can cost much more than slow-release ones). Finally, the price also obviously varies depending on the size of the package. For these reasons, we recommend that you first assess your needs for use.
CAN SELF-TANNERS BE USED ON THE FACE?
Generic self-tanners should only be used on the body. In fact, facial skin is different than body skin and absorbs the product differently than other areas of the body; moreover, being more delicate, it is more at risk of irritation or allergic reactions. It is best, therefore, to opt for a self-tanner specifically for the face that will be formulated without ingredients that can irritate or cause rashes; the best formulas for the face are fluid droplets or convenient wipes. Some self-tanners can be used on both the face and the body, but this feature must be specified on the label.
