WHAT IS IT?
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SELF TAN OR SELF TANNER: WHAT IS IT?
Self-tanner is cosmetic product formulated to give the skin a moderately persistent tanned appearance, but without resorting to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. For this reason, it is also known as sunlesstanner.
Self-tanning products generally come in fluid form, similar to sunscreens, lotions or gels; once applied to the skin, after an appropriate setting time, an amber tint is achieved that is quite similar to that given by the sun‘ s rays.
A healthy, long-lasting, eventan is achieved gradually after about 7-10 days of sun exposure, as a consequence of melanin activation. The “self tan” effect, on the other hand, is the result of chemical interaction between DHA(dihydroxyacetone, theactive ingredient in tanner; INCI: Dihydroxyacetone) and the amino acids in the keratin present in the uppermost layer of the skin(stratum corneum).
DID YOU KNOW THAT.
Tanning is a natural protective reaction of the skin to UV rays: exposing oneself to the sun makes the complexion darker due to theactivation of melanin, the pigment produced by melanocytes that gives our skin its complexion. Melanin functions physiologically as a filter that, by spreading into the upper skin layers, prevents ultraviolet rays from causing damage to the skin, and it usually takes a few days to evenly distribute itself.
For this reason, sunburns tend to occur mostly at first exposures, when the skin has accumulated little pigment yet, so it has little natural protection against ultraviolet radiation. The mechanism implemented by the skin surface to defend itself from the sun is called melanogenesis.
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HOW IT WORKS
SELF-TANNING: MECHANISM OF ACTION
Self-tanner does not act on melanin or intervene in its production, but, simply, “sunless” tanning is possible due to the presence of substances, such as dihydroxyacetone(DHA), capable of reacting with skin surface proteins and forming color complexes (ochre to brown).
In view of this mechanism of action, the term “self-tanner” is not quite correct: the product acts independently of UV radiation and does not activate melanogenesis, but intervenes at the surface level, binding to amino acids in keratin. This triggers the Maillard reaction (to be clear, the same one at the origin of the brown crust that forms when cooking a steak). This series of condensation reactions leads to the formation of colored intermediates(melanoidins).
Similar mechanism to that of DHA is exerted byerythrulose, a sugar that reacts with the amine groups of keratin. The action from erythrulose (INCI: Erythrulose) is slower and results in less dehydration; this allows an even skin distribution, so the coloration is more gradual and uniform.
The performance and effectiveness of next-generation self-tanners lies in the DHA-based formula, often combined with erythrulose and caramel, for the purpose of rapid reduction to a very natural-looking complexion. The most advanced products also contain moisturizing complexes and antioxidant vitamins.
SELF-TANNERS AND TAN INTENSIFIERS: DIFFERENCES
Tanning enhancers (or activators) are creams, oils and balms that contain substances that can promote the production of melanin (pigment responsible for tanning). Tanning enhancers usually contain tyrosine (a precursor to melanin), a substance that makes melanin produced by the skin more available and optimizes stimulation of the sun’s rays. Ingredients also often include substances that can aid melanin in photoprotection, such as beta-carotene. Tanning enhancers generally do not contain sunscreens, so it is important to continue to protect yourself with a photoprotector and not expose yourself too much to the sun, especially avoiding the hottest hours of the day.
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QUANTO DURA L’EFFETTO?
La colorazione della pelle modulata dall’autoabbronzante compare dopo 3-5 ore dall’applicazione e svanisce dopo 2-3 giorni, con lo sfaldamento degli strati superficiali dell’epidermide dovuto al normale turnover cellulare.
AUTOABBRONZANTI: COME OTTENERE SFUMATURE SU MISURA
The latest self-tanners are designed to gradually pigment the skin, with a palette of shades ranging from golden to amber to bronze. These products are to be applied once, a few days apart, to achieve an increasingly darker complexion. The latest formulas also do not smudge clothes and fade without leaving spots.
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WHAT TO KNOW FIRST
SELF-TANNING: PRECAUTIONS AND TIPS FOR USE
- Self-tanner should be applied to well exfoliated and smooth skin, taking great care not to forget any area. The application of the product requires special care in the most keratinized parts (e.g., knees, elbows): to avoid the appearance of spots of different colors, it is advisable not to insist.
- DHA is particularly unstable and tends to react with different categories of ingredients. For this reason, it is preferable to opt for quality products that have carried out very thorough formulation studies before release. Do not give in to the temptation of underpriced brands and be wary of those who promise incredible results in two hours: the best self-tanners work only gradually.
CURIOSITIES
DHA is a synthetic molecule. The discovery of its potential application in cosmetics occurred almost by accident, in the ΄50s of last century, during studies concerning diabetic sweeteners. After several tastings, researchers noticed the presence of amber shading around the mouth.
PROS OF SELF-TANNERS
- They give a vacation look and make the complexion healthy;
- They help to save a share of UV radiation;
- They do not correlate with damage from excessive exposure (such as wrinkles and sunspots);
- They are convenient to use and quick to spread out.
CONS OF SELF-TANNERS
Incorrect application of self-tanner overly marks features and highlights wrinkles and other imperfections; although formulas have evolved over time to avoid such side effects, failure to adhere to usage instructions can result in the formation of carrot-colored spots and shades.
CONTRAINDICATIONS
Self-tanner is not indicated if the skin is problematic or has blackheads, pimples, wounds or acne. Also be careful if you are on medication or, in the female sex, are menstruating: both are factors that can adversely affect the final color result.
SELF-TANNING AND SUNSCREEN
The pigmentation mechanism of self-tanner does not involve melanin, so the tint obtained through its application does not protect against UV radiation. Therefore, the use of sunscreen appropriate to one’s phototype is recommended during sun exposure, unless the self-tanner also specifically states SPF(Sun Protection Factor).
NEED TO KNOW
There are variants of self-tanner that are equipped with protective filters, allowing for sun exposure
WHICH ONE TO CHOOSE AND HOW TO APPLY
The choice of self-tanner version must take into consideration the starting complexion shade: get the formula wrong, and you risk a color that is too intense and orangey.
HOW TO CHOOSE BY STARTING COMPLEXION
Self-tanners are offered in multiple versions, specific for light and dark skin. This detail should be considered to avoid unnatural and poorly performing pigmentation from an aesthetic point of view.
TEXTURES AND TYPES OF SELF-TANNER
The classic types of self-tanners are cream and spray: they are applied to dry skin, after exfoliating it with scrubs in the shower. The cream versions should be spread evenly in wide, circular motions, without overdoing the amounts, blending on the feet and hands. Self-tanning creams provide extra hydration and last longer than sprays, but they dry more slowly. Less experienced users can use a professional sponge mitt (note: there are ones specifically for applying self-tanner). On the face, the cream is applied by proceeding outward.
Sprays should be sprayed about 25 to 30 cm away; this texture of self-tanner is suitable for immediate results and fast drying, but it is best not to choose it if your skin is dry.
There are also self-tanning wipes: this solution is very practical and recommended especially when returning from vacation to quickly revive your tan.
APPLICATION: WHAT NOT TO DO (WITH REMEDIES)
- DO NOT apply self-tanner to skin that is dehydrated or prone to dryness. Thickened or dry areas (such as elbows, knees and ankles) tend to absorb more DHA, thus turning orange. To prevent such an unwanted effect, exfoliate the skin, especially insisting on the drier areas, and apply moisturizer as usual before proceeding with the self-tanner.
- DO NOT use the right amount: using too much product or spreading less than necessary will affect the final aesthetic result with the risk of streaks and spots. To remedy excess and lighten the skin a few shades, it is advisable to sprinkle the body with baby oil and leave on for 10 minutes, then take a hot shower and exfoliate. In case you have used too little self-tanner for fear of making mistakes, it is best to opt for a gradual tanning lotion, so as to better keep pigmentation under control.
- DO NOT apply only to the exposed parts, to avoid the “gap” of color between the two parts being too obvious (e.g., décolleté and face). By the same principle, the back should also not be neglected: there are 360-degree directional sprays that reach even “difficult” areas.
HOW TO MAINTAIN YOUR COMPLEXION OVER TIME
Once the perfect complexion has been achieved, the right beauty routine plays a key role in preserving its intensity. It starts in the shower, choosing cleansers rich in a nourishing and emollient substances to prevent the skin from flaking, wash after wash. Then, it is helpful to abound with a moisturizer, to be applied and massaged in until fully absorbed.
Once a week, it may be helpful to resort to a gentle scrub. In fact, exfoliation removes the dullness given by dead cells on the surface of the skin, and restores evenness and radiance to the skin.
AUSTRALIAN GOLD VITAMIN RICH SELF TANNER
Australian Gold offers a self-tanning lotion with an intense darkening blend that uses fade defy technology. The color you get when applying Australina Gold’s product is a beautiful bronze, and the result is achieved in about 2-4 hours. This type of self-tanner stimulates a rapid response of the melanogenesis pathways so that you get a faster color without the need for exposure. Vitamin C-rich kakadaku plum is added to the formulation, as well asaloe vera and shea butter.
COLLISTAR MAGIC DROPS SELF-TANNING BODY-LEGS
This particular Collistar self-tanner is designed to be used on the body and legs. The product, which is called Magic Drops for Body and Legs, can in fact be used in conjunction with Magic Drops for Visa. Magic Drops for Body and Legs is easy to spread, the cream has an extremely light texture that absorbs quickly without being greasy. It should be applied evenly on the skin of the body after washing and drying it carefully.
COCO & EVE SUNNY HONEY – (DARK) BALI BRONZER NATURAL SELF-TANNING MOUSSE
Coco & Eve’s self-tanner is formulated with 100 percent natural DHA and helps give the skin a beautiful, even tint. The self-tanner has the consistency of a mousse and promises to act in just 2 hours. In addition, Coco & Eve has enriched its product with coconut oil and perfected it using Cellushape technology enriched with powerful natural antioxidants such as fig, which helps fight cellulite blemishes. Each pack allows for between 10 and 20 applications all over the body.
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